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L'Escala – Where Anxovies Come From

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View from Cala Montó, L'Escala

L’Escala is a small old fishing town sitting in the Alt Empordà coast, just about bang on what the locals call The Costa Brava: small secluded bays (many of them only reachable by boat), thick-sand beaches (it is one of the towns with most blue-flag beaches in Spain), deep shores (none of that ‘walk a mile and the water is still only at your waist’: 5 steps and you’re neck-deep, careful!), rocky cliffs ending on the water, deep-green pine trees painfully twisted by unmerciful winds and, speaking of which, home of the Tramuntana -a spiteful Northern wind which has a marked tendency to destroy both people’s properties and their sanity.

One of the things that makes l’Escala such a quaint little place to be is the fact that, despite swelling its people count during the months of June, July and August, the swarming hordes of tourists tend to limit themselves to occupy the port and main promendade area, which unfortunately pay tribute to the town selling itself for cheap hotel-building during the 70s.

But, as I just said, they can go their way and you can go yours without having to cross paths! L’Escala offers plenty of places off the beaten track to enjoy its Mediterranean diet, it’s renowned, certified Anxovies, and to be able to have a drink, rest assured.

Besides that, though, if you combine its fantastic location with a visit during April-May/September, you’re sure to be able to discover the many possibilities it offers you:

  • Trekking & Cycling - The Aiguamolls de l’Empordà, a national, protected park, (Mediterranean wetlands) are right outside the town, featuring many migrating birds, meadowy marshes and fantastically unspoilt beaches. Also, if you’re cycling, discover the rural side of the Costa Brava in towns like Vilacolum, Vilamacolum…On the coastal side, follow the path from l’Escala through Empúries (visit the ruins of one of the first Greek settlements in the Peninsula) to Sant Martí d’Empúries, and enjoy the breath-taking sights.

  • Boating & Kayaking - Head your boat towards Cadaqués and make as many stop-overs in the plentiful calas as you wish on the way -see if you can spot El Bulli even! For Kayaking, leave from Cala Montgó (there are a couple of rentals right on the beach) and head south, you will not be disappointed.

  • Horse-riding - Outside the town there are a couple of horse-riding schools -open during the warmest months of the year, though, call ahead just in case. Again, the Aiguamolls de l’Empordà offer the perfect setting for a long ride.

In short, l’Escala will cater for those of you who want to spend a few days sun-bathing, exercising or relaxing. As a bonus, you’ll be half-way to the Dalí towns of Figueres and Cadaqués.

More on where to eat and drink to come soon!

Published on 30 July 2009

Tags: Girona province · One-day trips · Open-air visit · Popular places · Sun & beach


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beach in l'EscalaView from Cala Montó, L'EscalaNight View of l'Escala's Church

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#1 infocostabrava.com says...

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